Fish sauce

Lore & Background

In Europe, fish sauces were widely used in ancient Mediterranean cuisine. The earliest recorded production was between the 4th–3rd century BC by the Ancient Greeks, who fermented fish scraps into garos. The Romans made garum or liquamen, described by Pliny the Elder as made from fish guts and refuse. Garum was made in Roman outposts of Spain from mackerel, salted and sun-fermented for months. The process lasted until the 16th century, when makers switched to anchovy and removed innards. Garum was ubiquitous in Roman cooking, mixed with wine (oenogarum), vinegar (oxygarum), or honey (meligarum). It was often maligned as smelling bad and is said to be similar to modern colatura di alici. Worcestershire sauce is a related product.

Reader's Guide

Fish sauce is significant as a fundamental seasoning in Southeast Asian cuisines and has been embraced globally by chefs and home cooks for its umami flavor, derived from glutamate. It is used during or after cooking and as a base in dipping sauces. Regional variations include Thai and Cambodian fish sauces, which are generally milder than Vietnamese ones. In the Philippines, patis is a by-product of bagoong production and is nearly always cooked before consumption. In Thailand, nam pla is used both in cooking and as a table condiment, often mixed with lime juice and chilies. The production process involves fermenting fish or shellfish with salt at 10% to 30% concentration for up to two years. Extended fermentation reduces fishy taste and yields a nuttier, richer flavor. Second-pass sauces may include caramel, molasses, or roasted rice. Fish sauce differs from oyster sauce, which is sweeter and less aromatic. Soy sauce is regarded by some in the West as a vegetarian alternative, though flavors differ.

Did You Know?

• Fish sauce is made from fish or krill coated in salt and fermented for up to two years.
• The umami flavor in fish sauce is due to its glutamate content.
• A Hokkien Chinese fish sauce called kôechiap might be the precursor of ketchup.
• Roman garum was made from mackerel and fermented in the sun for several months.